Registered: Jun 2008
Location: Rochester, N.Y.
Posts: 26

I'm riding an early 2000 T.E., which I purchased used a few years ago.

It came equipped with 24-42-52 rings and an 11-34 8spd. cassette all served by Shimano Deore XT derailleur and shifters. It has a Terricycle idler for return chain management.

My problem is this: I can't seem to get the chain to the correct length and apparently neither could the previous owner. It's either too short In the 52-34 configuration or too long in the 24-11 configuration. I'm currently running with the too tight scenario and hoping I remember not to shift into the 52-34 gear combo.

I've been in discussion with my LBS in an attempt to rectify this issue. I really like the gearing I have now so I would like to find a way to make it work, if one exists.

We looked up Shimano rear derailleur with 36 tooth capacity but they had insufficient wrap (45 tooth vs. my 51 tooth). We also looked at some chain tensioners that mount to the chain stay wondering if one of those might give me enough clearance to use my 52-34 combination with my current chain length.

We did not look up any SRAM derailleur since I have the Shimano trigger shifters but if SRAM has components that will sort this out then I am willing to spend the money to change components.

Have any of you successfully used this combination of gears and found the components to allow proper chain length throughout the entire gearing range? Advice please??

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Lenny

"If you think you can, you can. If you think you can't you're right"
Willie Eldon O'Ree

Last edited by Cranky Old Dude on 02-23-2012 at 10:42 PM

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Registered: Jun 2007
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 37

Your asking a lot for the chain to be the right length with this much gear inch spread.

Suggestion: - Go back to the original Easy Racer under seat idlers This will probalby fix your sitiuation. Why? - the original spring loaded idlers are able to wrap up more length of chain when using cross over in 11X24. It is quite possible to have your cake and eat it too with a LWB like a TE or GRR

Example: - I use a 58X39X26 on the front and a 11X32 for the cogs. There are only three usable low gears when I am using the 26 tooth chain ring before the chain starts to skip from too much slack. Why so much slack I "never ever" want the drive line "too tight". The big 58 chain ring/32cog cross over is my work horse gear. When I need the lows for a long steep grade I simply shift up from the 26 to the middle 39 tooth as soon as I can to prevent the skip and chain slack dangling around under the bike. You see - I too like my selected gear arrangement for a wide range of gear inches

Note that I ride Body Socked - so I ride mostly in the 58 tooth ring so to work the speed momentum all the way across from the 11 to the 32 tooth cog routinely. However - with this admission - I do "not" feel it is the responsibility of Easy Racers or Terra Cycle idlers to accomodate my gear selection regarding their factory spec's. This is my arrangement to manage.

I know your not complaining - your on the hunt for info - Just be aware that the bike is not currently set up to use the wide gear inch range your enjoying with out some give and take on your part.

Once again - try the older version idlers. The best ones are the "plastic pullys" that last longer. I used to use them successfully for wide range gear inches before TerraCycle idlers came on the market. The reason I manage the Terra Cycle idlers, they save a "whole bunch" of drive line resistance. It is up to me to manage the extra chain slack to fit my need. It's the ying/yang I accept for riding extreme gear inches

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Dinkster

Last edited by Dinkster on 02-24-2012 at 05:45 PM

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Registered: Nov 2002
Location: Lugoff, South Carolina
Posts: 116

Here's the rule of thumb I've always used on my Gold Rush (24 - 39 - 52,
11-34 cassette):

With the chain on the big / big combination, remove links as needed
to position the rear derailleur cage at approximatley a 4 o'clock
position. That has worked fine for me for at least 50,000 miles of
riding the GRR. Note: I don't use an idler.

I use a TerraCycle idler on my Javelin, though. The same chain length
strategy described above applies for that bike, too.

Johnny

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Registered: Jun 2008
Location: Rochester, N.Y.
Posts: 26

Thank you all for your prompt and informative responses.

I'm going to size the chain long enough to handle the 52/34 combination thus eliminating the chance of accidental damage if I happen to shift into that combo.

I do use the 24/34 on a couple of hills that I frequent in my neighborhood. I'll be both practicing my shift technique to elliminate chain slack and shopping around for an original T.E. chain tensioner or a reasonable facsimile of one.

It's so nice to have a plan...

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Lenny

"If you think you can, you can. If you think you can't you're right"
Willie Eldon O'Ree

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Registered: Apr 2008
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 77

I have a similar set-up as yours...24, 44, 54 on an 8 speed, t-cycle idler and 11 - 34 mega range cassette with shimano XT long cage derailer (thanks to Sheldon Brown for pushing this spelling).

When I first got the bike, I rode it some and then examined and fine tuned the components.

On my work stand, the chain drags the front derailer cage as there appeared to be "too much slack" when on the 24 T. The chain pooled over the bottom of the cage and looked impossible to ride. Since I never heard this chain scrape before, I looked a little harder.

I discovered the top or power side of the chain is under tension when under any load, therefore the chain will not drag the cage as long as I am pedaling. If you based your excessive chain length diagnosis from chain dragging under no load on the work stand, you may not have a problem. Next time you have the bike on the stand, squeeze the rear brake a bit while pedaling to see the chain line under load.

The b-limit screw is supposed to keep the derailer jockey from hitting the cassette under light loads and slack chain when you are in the 34 tooth rear or largest diameter gear. This adjustment will help in the small - big combo but is of no help once you get out there on the 11 tooth. However, you have the derailer cage spring to tension the chain and is should be enough to keep the bits apart.

I have enough chain to use the big - big combo and have no problems that I can attribute to too much chain. On the small - small combo, I do not hear any chain rub from either the return chain hitting the jockey or dragging on front derailer cage, as long as I am pedaling under a load.

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Keith M.

Two Tour Easys
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Registered: Nov 2003
Location: Detroit suburbs
Posts: 631

quote:

---

Originally posted by kmay
I have a similar set-up as yours...24, 44, 54 on an 8 speed, t-cycle idler and 11 - 34 mega range cassette with shimano XT long cage derailer (thanks to Sheldon Brown for pushing this spelling).

When I first got the bike, I rode it some and then examined and fine tuned the components.

On my work stand, the chain drags the front derailer cage as there appeared to be "too much slack" when on the 24 T. The chain pooled over the bottom of the cage and looked impossible to ride. Since I never heard this chain scrape before, I looked a little harder.

I discovered the top or power side of the chain is under tension when under any load, therefore the chain will not drag the cage as long as I am pedaling. If you based your excessive chain length diagnosis from chain dragging under no load on the work stand, you may not have a problem. Next time you have the bike on the stand, squeeze the rear brake a bit while pedaling to see the chain line under load.

The b-limit screw is supposed to keep the derailer jockey from hitting the cassette under light loads and slack chain when you are in the 34 tooth rear or largest diameter gear. This adjustment will help in the small - big combo but is of no help once you get out there on the 11 tooth. However, you have the derailer cage spring to tension the chain and is should be enough to keep the bits apart.

I have enough chain to use the big - big combo and have no problems that I can attribute to too much chain. On the small - small combo, I do not hear any chain rub from either the return chain hitting the jockey or dragging on front derailer cage, as long as I am pedaling under a load.

---

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Registered: Jun 2008
Location: Rochester, N.Y.
Posts: 26

Joe, Keith;

Thank you.

I'm taking the bike to my favorute LBS next week for a thorough going over including a new chain (being self taught, I like to have professional hands on the bike occasionally).

I will have them size the chain to handle the 52/34 combination and explain to them what your observations have been. I also have a line on an old Easy Racers chain tensioner. If I get it I can install it in place of my TeraCycle idler. I'm anxious to see if it makes much of a difference both in regards to chain slack control and additional noise.

Lenny

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Happy Trails
Lenny

"If you think you can, you can. If you think you can't you're right"
Willie Eldon O'Ree

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